I'm so thankful I got to experience Battambang. I feel like I got a bit closer to experiencing the 'real' Cambodia. We got to mingle with the people, to hear some of their stories and share albeit a small chunk of life with them. The people here are absolutely beautiful.
Next time you take a trip somewhere - overseas or around our great country I would encourage you to head off the beaten track. You will be amazed at what you will find. The best stories aren't in the tourist areas or markets - they're with your 'everyday' people.
I guess I'm being a bit philosophical... I wasn't planning on doing that yet.
I spent most of last week with the 'Logistics Team' and had a ball with a couple of other blokes who were accompanying their wives & partners. We were kept busy with trips to the local stationery store PBC, photocopying and other errands. I had been appointed the 'official' photographer so every so often I would whip around the workshops and see what quality photos I could create.
Don't get me wrong it was busy when the workshops were on but after they'd finished each day we had something social on most afternoons and/or nights.
Tuesday we got along to the Smokin' Pot restaurant for some cooking lessons. It sounds a bit suss but let me assure you it's all above board. Our instructor took us to the market where we purchased the ingredients for the three dishes we were going to make - chicken/fish amok, beef lok lak and chicken and basil stir fry. There were live fish trying to make a run for it and two that got konked in the head and formed the basis for our fish amok. It's hard to forget the sound of a cleaver cracking a fish's skull... but hey it was all part of the experience. We also purchased some morning glory which most of us found amusing but it was a green herb which wasn't what we first thought of... The class was fantastic and the best part was being able to eat what we'd cooked and getting a recipe book so we can cook the food at home.
It was interesting talking to the instructor who was also the owner of the business. We found out he gives the leftover food to street kids. While we were there some street children who looked like they were aged between four and seven ate at a street-side restaurant. He said that an NGO pays for the children to eat there regularly. He was telling us that a lot of these NGOs pay their staff well and they are provided four-wheel drives to drive (there aren't many cars in Battambang so it's pretty noticeable). He felt that the money that was spent on the four-wheel drives could be better spent actually helping people.
Wednesday night we went to circus Phare Ponleu Selpak (PPS) which means 'The brightness of art'. I was just blown away by the talent of these performers. PPS supports children who are extremely vulnerable and who are victims of child trafficking, family violence, poverty and disease. There were no animals, just children and young people throwing themselves into art, beauty and all that kind of stuff. There were a few stuff-ups and that was totally cool, but after each one they would have another go until they nailed it.
Thursday night I was under pressure from Em to get some pants for the closing ceremony on Saturday. I had been measured up on the previous Friday for a tailored pair but kept forgetting to pick them up, and when I did go this night they were closed. I went to one store and tried to communicate what I wanted but in the end it was too hard and I went back to the hotel. I thought about it some more and tried another store at the market. I got a pair of 33 waist pants and when I tried them on back at the hotel they were a touch too tight. I thought I'll head back to the store and get a pair of 34s and they should be sweet... back at the hotel I tried the 34s on and they were tighter than the 33s... doh! I went back to the store a third time and got the 33s and I will just need to lose some weight. I thought I might lose some going up and down those stairs at our hotel but had no such luck.
Friday we visited the Hope for Cambodian Children orphanage just outside of Battambang. I was a little bit apprehensive because I didn't want to be an orphanage tourist but this orphanage is one that Teachers Across Borders supports. I didn't feel comfortable taking any photos but the kids were really cute. Most of them have been impacted in some way by HIV - either their parents have it, or they do, or both. The other orphanages in Cambodia discriminate against them on this basis. I was surprised to find two Filipinos heading up the orphanage. They also had volunteer social workers from other countries who help assess the suitability of homes for children's reintegration to their communities. It didn't sound like the government provided much in the way of financial or practical assistance however, someone from the government did visit homes with the social workers, I think to keep an eye on things.
Friday was our fifth wedding anniversary and we headed out for a romantic dinner... with the whole T.A.B. team at the University of Battambang! We had a lovely meal cooked by trainees from the hospitality department of the University. Em and I and a few others headed out to check out the Battambang night life. We headed to a place where there were a lot of ex-pats and then to a traditional Khmer club which was very enjoyable. The locals embraced us with a few of them clunking glasses with us and showing us how to dance traditionally. We then headed to a trendier bar but it was absolutely dead... We eventually ended up at Sky Club and Em and I had an awesome time breaking it down with the locals. We spent some time up the front on the podiums (which were either side of the DJ). There were no small people to pick up and I would like to say that I feel I was very restrained (I had Em's eagle eyes watching me the whole time). It was a fully excellent night and one we won't be forgetting too soon.
Saturday saw the end of the workshops and the closing ceremony. The ceremony was delayed due to the director being held up by another engagement. The participants and facilitators received rewards for what had been a hard, but rewarding week of workshops. I was pretty proud of what all the facilitators had done and hopefully it will be of lasting benefit to the teachers who attended, and thus their students and potentially the educational outcomes for Cambodians in Battambang and provinces.
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| The Logistics Team |
Tuesday we got along to the Smokin' Pot restaurant for some cooking lessons. It sounds a bit suss but let me assure you it's all above board. Our instructor took us to the market where we purchased the ingredients for the three dishes we were going to make - chicken/fish amok, beef lok lak and chicken and basil stir fry. There were live fish trying to make a run for it and two that got konked in the head and formed the basis for our fish amok. It's hard to forget the sound of a cleaver cracking a fish's skull... but hey it was all part of the experience. We also purchased some morning glory which most of us found amusing but it was a green herb which wasn't what we first thought of... The class was fantastic and the best part was being able to eat what we'd cooked and getting a recipe book so we can cook the food at home.
It was interesting talking to the instructor who was also the owner of the business. We found out he gives the leftover food to street kids. While we were there some street children who looked like they were aged between four and seven ate at a street-side restaurant. He said that an NGO pays for the children to eat there regularly. He was telling us that a lot of these NGOs pay their staff well and they are provided four-wheel drives to drive (there aren't many cars in Battambang so it's pretty noticeable). He felt that the money that was spent on the four-wheel drives could be better spent actually helping people.
Wednesday night we went to circus Phare Ponleu Selpak (PPS) which means 'The brightness of art'. I was just blown away by the talent of these performers. PPS supports children who are extremely vulnerable and who are victims of child trafficking, family violence, poverty and disease. There were no animals, just children and young people throwing themselves into art, beauty and all that kind of stuff. There were a few stuff-ups and that was totally cool, but after each one they would have another go until they nailed it.
Thursday night I was under pressure from Em to get some pants for the closing ceremony on Saturday. I had been measured up on the previous Friday for a tailored pair but kept forgetting to pick them up, and when I did go this night they were closed. I went to one store and tried to communicate what I wanted but in the end it was too hard and I went back to the hotel. I thought about it some more and tried another store at the market. I got a pair of 33 waist pants and when I tried them on back at the hotel they were a touch too tight. I thought I'll head back to the store and get a pair of 34s and they should be sweet... back at the hotel I tried the 34s on and they were tighter than the 33s... doh! I went back to the store a third time and got the 33s and I will just need to lose some weight. I thought I might lose some going up and down those stairs at our hotel but had no such luck.
Friday we visited the Hope for Cambodian Children orphanage just outside of Battambang. I was a little bit apprehensive because I didn't want to be an orphanage tourist but this orphanage is one that Teachers Across Borders supports. I didn't feel comfortable taking any photos but the kids were really cute. Most of them have been impacted in some way by HIV - either their parents have it, or they do, or both. The other orphanages in Cambodia discriminate against them on this basis. I was surprised to find two Filipinos heading up the orphanage. They also had volunteer social workers from other countries who help assess the suitability of homes for children's reintegration to their communities. It didn't sound like the government provided much in the way of financial or practical assistance however, someone from the government did visit homes with the social workers, I think to keep an eye on things.
Friday was our fifth wedding anniversary and we headed out for a romantic dinner... with the whole T.A.B. team at the University of Battambang! We had a lovely meal cooked by trainees from the hospitality department of the University. Em and I and a few others headed out to check out the Battambang night life. We headed to a place where there were a lot of ex-pats and then to a traditional Khmer club which was very enjoyable. The locals embraced us with a few of them clunking glasses with us and showing us how to dance traditionally. We then headed to a trendier bar but it was absolutely dead... We eventually ended up at Sky Club and Em and I had an awesome time breaking it down with the locals. We spent some time up the front on the podiums (which were either side of the DJ). There were no small people to pick up and I would like to say that I feel I was very restrained (I had Em's eagle eyes watching me the whole time). It was a fully excellent night and one we won't be forgetting too soon.
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| The T.A.B team, Battambang, January 2012 |
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| Teachers receiving their scarves from the Director |
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| Participants with their certificates |
Tim, you're a good writer. Thanks for sharing this journey. I feel quite inspired. I'm glad you've stopped picking up adults (literally) inappropriately.
ReplyDeleteCheers,
Geoff.
Hi Tim, my name is Adam Clark. A friend of ours Christos K. told me you were travelling to Cambodia- I am going there with my wife in February for a month and we are currently looking for some good places we could have a look at, that work/support with the local disadvantaged community. We are both teachers and are thinking about spending 2013 helping on the mission field, using Feb as a chance to see some of the organisations in action. We have a week where we're not doing much...do you have any places or organisations you would especially recommend to contact now, or go and take a look when we're there. Not really interested in orphanage tourism so it sounds like we're on the same page with that. Thanks very much, Adam.
ReplyDeleteHi Adam,
ReplyDeleteI'm Em (Tim's wife)answering on behalf of Tim. On this trip we were associated with Teachers Across Borders Australia and the organisations we have connected with have been through them and mostly secular. However, I have been to Cambodia twice before this trip and can offer a couple of suggestions to start you off on your research.
1. Sunshine Centre for Children http://www.sunshinecentrecambodia.org/
On my first trip to Cambodia I spent a couple of weeks at the Sunshine Centre, a day centre that works with impoverished children and families.
2. Hagar Cambodia http://www.hagarcambodia.org/ I have also visited with Hagar an organisation that works with women and children who are victims of abuse.
3. Destiny Rescue http://www.destinyrescue.org
I have a couple of friends who have volunteered with Destiny Rescue and they have had very positive experiences. They work with victims of human trafficking.
4. Daughters of Cambodia http://www.daughtersofcambodia.org/ also work with victims of sex trafficking and another friend of mine has spent some time with this organisation.
These are four that I would start with. They are all Christian organisations, based in Phnom Penh, highly organised and operate in the best interests of the children and women that they work with.
I hope this helps.
Em